Air Jordan 4 – History, Colorways & Guide
The Air Jordan 4 is Tinker’s game-changer—iconic for its breathable mesh netting, TPU “wings,” big Flight tongue patch, and visible Air that took late-’80s performance to the streets. From OG pillars like Bred, White Cement, Military Blue, and Fire Red to modern favorites—Black Cat, Cool Grey, Thunder/Lightning, White Thunder—and culture-shifting collabs like Off-White “Sail”, Travis Scott “Cactus Jack”, and Nike SB “Pine Green,” the AJ4 mixes hardwood heritage with everyday heat, staying as wearable and influential today as the day it debuted.
Air Jordan 4 “White Cement”
Overview
Clean, speckled, and timeless—the AJ4 that screams late-’80s design language.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: White Cement
- Official colors: White / Cement Grey / Black / Fire Red (accent)
- Year(s): OG 1989; retros 1999, 2012, 2016 (“Nike Air”)
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
White leather base with signature Cement Grey speckled wings and midsole; black eyelet panels; red Jumpman tongue.
Materials, fit & comfort
Full-grain leather with supportive cage/wings; standard AJ4 fit—breaks in nicely.
Notable moments & culture
Spike Lee’s Do the Right Thing scuff scene cemented (pun intended) its pop-culture status.
Retro timeline
1989 OG • 1999 retro • 2012 retro • 2016 “Nike Air” heel
How to wear
Light denim or grey sweats; crisp white socks for that retro courtside look.
Collectibility & tips
2016 “Nike Air” is the sweet spot for accuracy and wearability; check speckle quality and heel print when buying used.
Fun facts
One of the first Jordans to fully merge performance with visible, graphic design (that speckle is iconic).
Related colorways
Bred • Military Blue • Oreo/Tech Grey
Air Jordan 4 “Military Blue”
Overview
A non-Bulls colorway that became an all-time fan favorite—clean white with sharp blue accents.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Military Blue
- Official colors: White / Military Blue / Neutral Grey
- Year(s): OG 1989; retros 2006, 2012; true-to-OG 2024 (“Nike Air”)
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
White leather upper, Neutral Grey suede toe wrap, and Military Blue on the wings/heel and midsole plate—summer-ready blocking.
Materials, fit & comfort
Leather with suede overlays; breathable mesh; standard AJ4 stability and cushioning.
Notable moments & culture
Though MJ didn’t wear them in Bulls games, the Military Blue became a lifestyle classic and a retro-era must.
Retro timeline
1989 OG • 2006 retro • 2012 retro • 2024 “Nike Air” OG-style return
How to wear
Light wash denim or white/grey shorts; a blue cap or tee to tie in the accents.
Collectibility & tips
2024 pairs have the closest OG details; watch for toe-wrap suede shade and midsole paint quality on older retros.
Fun facts
One of the first AJ4s many collectors wore as a “summer shoe,” long before “UNC” shades started dominating.
Related colorways
White Cement • Travis “Cactus Jack” • University Blue
Air Jordan 4 “Black Cat”
Overview
All-black stealth take inspired by MJ’s “Black Cat” nickname.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Black Cat
- Official colors: Black / Black / Light Graphite
- Year(s): 2006; retro 2020
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
Murdered-out nubuck, black netting, black wings—minimal branding and maximum menace.
Materials, fit & comfort
Soft nubuck with mesh panels; standard AJ4 fit. Nubuck attracts lint—keep a suede brush handy.
Notable moments & culture
Casual-wear icon; resale rocket during the 2020 retro wave.
Retro timeline
2006 OG-style release • 2020 retro
How to wear
All-black tech pants or cargos; let the texture do the talking.
Collectibility & tips
Watch for toe-box shape and midsole paint. 2006 pairs age well but the 2020s are easier to wear.
Fun facts
“Black Cat” was Tinker’s internal nickname for MJ long before it was a colorway.
Related colorways
Black Cat (AJ3, AJ13) • Oreo 4 • Cool Grey 4
Air Jordan 4 “Travis Scott Cactus Jack”
Overview
Houston Oilers-inspired collab that kicked Travis x Jordan into high gear.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Cactus Jack (Travis Scott)
- Official colors: University Blue / Varsity Red / Black
- Year(s): 2018
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield; Travis Scott (collab)
Color story & design notes
Powder-blue nubuck, black speckled wings/heel, red lining; “Cactus Jack” heel branding.
Materials, fit & comfort
Soft nubuck; standard AJ4 structure.
Notable moments & culture
Early modern-era collab grail; friends-and-family variations fueled the lore.
Retro timeline
2018 release
How to wear
Black denim, red cap or tee to pick up the liner.
Collectibility & tips
Heel branding and speckle pattern are key legit checks; liner dye can transfer—wear dark socks.
Fun facts
Color palette nods to the old Houston Oilers.
Related colorways
University Blue • Thunder • Purple/Olive F&F (rare)
Air Jordan 4 “Cool Grey”
Overview
Monotone killer with small hits of chrome and yellow.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Cool Grey
- Official colors: Cool Grey / Chrome / Dark Charcoal (Varsity Maize accent)
- Year(s): 2004; retro 2019
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
Grey nubuck over black tooling; chrome Jumpman; tiny yellow window in the heel Air unit.
Materials, fit & comfort
Buttery nubuck; standard AJ4 support; easy daily wear.
Notable moments & culture
A non-OG that became a must-have—2019’s retro reminded everyone why.
Retro timeline
2004 debut • 2019 retro
How to wear
Grey sweats or washed black denim; silver watch/chain ties in the chrome.
Collectibility & tips
2019 suede is a shade lighter than many 2004 pairs—both look great on-foot.
Fun facts
One of the earliest non-OG 4s to earn “classic” status.
Related colorways
Oreo • Black Cat • Metallic Pack
Air Jordan 4 “Pine Green”
Overview
Skate-tuned AJ4 with SB branding and gum traction.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: SB “Pine Green”
- Official colors: Sail / Pine Green / Neutral Grey (gum outsole)
- Year(s): 2023
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield; Nike SB team
Color story & design notes
White leather with grey suede overlays, green wings/heel tab, red Jumpman tongue; Nike SB on the heel.
Materials, fit & comfort
Reworked forefoot, softer midsole, and gum outsole for board feel—still true-to-size for most.
Notable moments & culture
First AJ4 to wear Nike SB branding; praised by both skaters and sneakerheads.
Retro timeline
2023 release
How to wear
Light denim or grey sweats; green cap or jacket to match accents.
Collectibility & tips
Heel logo (Nike SB) is the tell; gum bottoms scuff nicely—age adds character.
Fun facts
Tuned sidewalls and a tweaked insole separate it from standard AJ4s.
Related colorways
Military Black • Metallic Green • Fire Red
Off-White x Air Jordan 4 “Sail” (W)
Overview
Virgil’s creamy, deconstructed take—museum-piece energy.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Off-White “Sail”
- Official colors: Sail / Muslin / White / Black
- Year(s): 2020 (women’s, extended sizing)
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield; Virgil Abloh (OW)
Color story & design notes
Translucent wings, exposed foam tongue, “AIR” print, zip-tie, and Off-White medial text.
Materials, fit & comfort
Smooth leather + mesh; lighter feel than many 4s.
Notable moments & culture
Top-tier collab—resale heater; frequently seen in fashion editorials.
Retro timeline
2020 release
How to wear
Cream/earth-tone fits; cropped pants to let the shape breathe.
Collectibility & tips
Beware fakes—medial text spacing, air unit shape, and insole branding are tells.
Fun facts
Pairs shipped with a cream-tone hangtag and matching OW laces.
Related colorways
OW “Sail” AJ5 • University Blue 4 • Metallic Pack
Air Jordan 4 “Thunder”
Overview
High-contrast black/yellow LS classic.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Thunder
- Official colors: Black / Tour Yellow / White
- Year(s): 2006; retro 2012; retro 2023
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
Black nubuck with Tour Yellow netting, lace wings, and midsole pops.
Materials, fit & comfort
Durable nubuck; true AJ4 ride.
Notable moments & culture
2006 release arrived online with a matching jacket—early “Lifestyle” era legend.
Retro timeline
2006 debut • 2012 retro • 2023 retro
How to wear
Black cargos + yellow accent (cap/tee) for balance.
Collectibility & tips
2006 pairs command premiums; 2023 is the wearable daily driver.
Fun facts
Dropped alongside the “Lightning,” making one of the best two-shoe sets in 4 history.
Related colorways
Lightning • White Thunder • Black Cat
Air Jordan 4 “University Blue”
Overview
UNC homage with a team-tag tongue.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: University Blue (UNC)
- Official colors: University Blue / Tech Grey / Black / White
- Year(s): 2021
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
Soft blue suede with speckled Tech Grey wings and heel; jock-tag style woven tongue label with “23”.
Materials, fit & comfort
Plush suede; true-to-size AJ4 feel. Suede likes a protector spray.
Notable moments & culture
Instant sell-out; the most wearable “UNC” 4 to date.
Retro timeline
2021 release
How to wear
Light denim or grey sweats; subtle UNC hat = chef’s kiss.
Collectibility & tips
Watch the tongue tag alignment and speckle quality when buying second-hand.
Fun facts
The tongue uses a jersey-style label—rare detail on an AJ4.
Related colorways
Travis Scott “Cactus Jack” • Military Blue • Off-White “Sail”
Air Jordan 4 “White Thunder”
Overview
Inverted Thunder for the monochrome crowd.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: White Thunder
- Official colors: White / Black
- Year(s): 2024
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
Black upper with crisp white netting, wings, and midsole—high-contrast, no yellow.
Materials, fit & comfort
Nubuck + mesh; standard AJ4 feel.
Notable moments & culture
A modern favorite that echoes the Thunder’s blocking minus the Tour Yellow.
Retro timeline
2024 release
How to wear
Black jeans or shorts; white tee to mirror the accents.
Collectibility & tips
QC can vary on white netting edges—inspect for paint bleed.
Fun facts
Often called “reverse Thunder” by collectors.
Related colorways
Thunder • Black Cat • Oreo
Air Jordan 4 “Bred” (Black/Cement)
Overview
The defining AJ4. Worn by MJ for The Shot in ’89—forever etched in hoops history.
Quick Specs
- Nickname: Bred / Black Cement
- Official colors: Black / Cement Grey / Fire Red
- Year(s): OG 1989; retros 1999, 2008 (CDP), 2012, 2019 (“Nike Air”), 2024 “Reimagined”
- Designer: Tinker Hatfield
Color story & design notes
Matte black upper with Cement Grey and Fire Red hits; TPU wings, mesh netting, and visible Air defined late-’80s performance design.
Materials, fit & comfort
Typically nubuck/suede (’89/’19) or leather (“Reimagined” 2024); true-to-size AJ4 feel with solid ankle support.
Notable moments & culture
MJ’s 1989 playoff dagger vs. Cleveland; staple in music videos and streetwear for decades.
Retro timeline
1989 OG • 1999 remaster • 2008 CDP • 2012 retro • 2019 “Nike Air” heel • 2024 “Reimagined” (leather)
How to wear
Black jeans or cargos; pops of red (cap/tee) to echo the accents.
Collectibility & tips
’99 pairs are grails; 2019 has the classic “Nike Air” heel; 2024 leather is the easiest daily driver.
Fun facts
Early pairs were banned by some school leagues for “too much black.” Didn’t matter—everyone still wanted them.
Related colorways
White Cement • Military Blue • Thunder/White Thunder
Air Jordan 4 History
Released: 1989
Dropping in 1989, the Air Jordan 4 built on the momentum of the III and took the hype global. Tinker Hatfield returned as designer, refining the Air Jordan formula for MJ’s fifth pro season. Notably, the AJ4 was the first Jordan released on the international market, expanding the franchise’s reach worldwide. It released in four original colorways (including the beloved “Black/Cement” and “Fire Red”), making 1989 another milestone year for Jordan fanatics eager to cop the latest Airness.
Design Elements:
The Air Jordan 4 combined performance tech with aggressive style. It retained visible Air in the heel and a cushioned midsole, but added a unique mesh paneling on the upper for ventilation – both functional and instantly recognizable. Plastic “wings” with eyelets on the sides let wearers customize lacing for support; these winged straps also became a defining aesthetic touch. The shoe’s collar and tongue were well-padded for comfort, and on the heel tab, “Nike Air” branding (on the OG pairs) reminded everyone of its lineage. The AJ4 had a somewhat broader, chunkier silhouette than the III, giving it a sturdy look. Hatfield drew from industrial design cues, evident in the grid mesh and supportive TPU wings. The result was a sneaker that looked fast and fierce, whether in classic Bulls colors or the military blue/grey scheme. Simply put, the Jordan 4’s design merged form and function perfectly – a balance that makes it a favorite to this day.
Key Moments:
If one moment defines the Air Jordan 4, it’s “The Shot.” In the 1989 NBA playoffs, Michael Jordan, wearing the Black/Cement IVs, hit a hanging series-clincher at the buzzer over Cleveland – then famously pumped his fist in triumph. That image of MJ in mid-air as the ball swishes through is burned into basketball history (and every Bulls fan’s memory), elevating the AJ4 to legendary status. The shoe was omnipresent during the ’89 season as Jordan continued his scoring onslaught and All-Star dominance. Off the court, the AJ4 had its own star turn: Spike Lee featured a pair of White/Cement IVs in Do The Right Thing (1989), in the scene where Buggin’ Out freaks over his Jordans getting scuffed. That crossover into film – a character literally distraught over someone ruining his fresh Js – showed how revered the sneakers had become in culture. Nike also continued the Mars Blackmon ads for the IV, solidifying the model’s connection with youth and pop culture. Every big shot Mike took in ’89 seemed to happen in a pair of 4s, etching the sneaker into highlight reels and posters forever.
Cultural Impact:
The Jordan 4 helped cement the idea of sneakers as status symbols and cultural artifacts. Its appearance in Do The Right Thing was huge: here was a major film capturing the real emotional bond people had with their Jordans – it validated sneakerhead culture on screen. The phrase “You scuffed my Jordans!” became an inside joke and a very real sentiment for enthusiasts. By 1989, the sight of Nike Air Jordans on city streets from Chicago to Tokyo was common, and the AJ4, being a global release, amplified that. Hip-hop embraced the 4s too; you’d see them on album covers and in music videos as the sneaker game’s hottest flex. The mesh and wings design was so distinctive that even non-sneaker folks started recognizing Jordans by silhouette. For many, the AJ4 was the shoe that turned casual fans into collectors – it struck the perfect balance of style and story. Over the years, its cultural cachet has stayed strong: retros of the IV (like the 1999 and 2012 releases) were met with campouts, and collaborations such as the Eminem “Encore” and Undefeated IV became grail-level pieces, fetching insane aftermarket prices. From the basketball court to Hollywood to the streets, the Jordan 4 left an indelible footprint in culture as a symbol of cool, success, and sneaker obsession.
Legacy:
The Air Jordan 4’s legacy in the sneaker world is secure as one of the all-time greats. It’s a staple of Jordan Brand’s retro lineup – fans eagerly anticipate each re-release of classics like the “Bred” (last retroed in 2019 with OG Nike Air branding) or “White Cement” (retroed in 2016). New colorways and limited editions keep it in the spotlight, too – everything from the “Toro Bravo” red suede 4s to the collaborative UNDFTD olive pair have showcased the model’s versatility. Collaboration-wise, the AJ4 has some of the most coveted partnerships: Eminem’s uber-rare editions, Travis Scott’s “Cactus Jack” 4s, and even a luxe reptilian collab with Pinnacle all speak to its enduring appeal. Sneaker lore is also rich with the AJ4 – for instance, Jordan Brand released a special “Cavs” colorway in 2012 to commemorate The Shot vs. Cleveland, turning a rival team’s colors into a tribute to MJ’s greatness. Little touches like that keep the storytelling alive. In hindsight, the Air Jordan 4 is remembered not just for its on-court pedigree, but for solidifying the Air Jordan line as a cultural force. It proved that the hype of the AJ3 was no fluke – Jordans were here to stay, and each model could bring something new. Decades later, the sight of those mesh panels and heel tabs still gets sneakerheads excited, and the AJ4 continues to influence sneaker design and ignite nostalgia in equal measure.











